By Nameh John
October 1, 2024
Across the African continent, women have long adorned themselves with beads, colorful prints, and symbolic body art. These adornments are not mere decorative items but carry deep cultural significance. In Nigeria, women would traditionally drape themselves in coral beads, placing them on their necks, heads, wrists, waists, and ankles. Eastern Nigerian maidens often wore short wrappers tied around their chests and waists, while northern Nigerian women used lanle (a traditional form of body art) to paint intricate designs on their skin. From Igbo women donning waist beads to Zulu girls dancing topless during cultural festivities such as the Reed Dance, African women have always proudly embraced their heritage. Every time there is a cultural showcase, the pride and joy in these traditions remain palpable.
The Significance of Coral Beads
Coral beads hold a special place in the history and traditions of many African communities, including those in Nigeria. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, coral beads have been used in ceremonies to signify status and power. Historically, coral beads were highly prized and were part of significant trade routes from the Mediterranean and Red Seas into Africa. These beads symbolized wealth and were exchanged for gold, ivory, and other valuable items.
In the ancient Kingdom of Benin, the Oba and his court wore coral beads as symbols of their divine authority and high status. The practice of wearing coral beads spread to the Yoruba and Igbo communities, becoming an essential part of their ceremonial and cultural life. Even today, coral beads are worn during important events such as weddings and coronations, serving as a reminder of Africa's rich heritage.
The Spiritual Significance of Hair: From Dreadlocks to Rituals
In Yoruba culture, children born with natural dreadlocks, known as dada, are considered to possess supernatural powers. It is often said that a "dada" can never be in need and will always be provided for. Beyond the Yoruba people, many African communities regard these children as special, often believed to be reincarnations of deities or great ancestors.
Among the Igbo, these children are referred to as Elena, meaning "Child King." Their dreadlocks are seen as a sacred connection to the spiritual world. For these children, the cutting of their hair is not taken lightly; it is a ritualistic event led by a chief priest, who keeps the hair as a form of spiritual protection.
While traditional beliefs surrounding dreadlocks remain, modern times have seen a shift. What was once considered mystic and spiritual has now become trendy across generations. Dreadlocks are embraced as a cultural statement, representing African identity and beauty.
Lofose Day and the Preservation of Tradition
The Yoruba people of Ode continue to preserve cultural traditions through events such as Lofose Day, an annual occasion when the community gathers in celebration of its rich heritage. On this day, both young and old come out to watch a rich display of different masquerades including the Agemo, which only comes out once a year.
Similarly, the Zulu Reed Dance in South Africa sees young Zulu girls performing dances toplesss to promote celibacy and honor their culture. Despite the modern world’s influence, events like these keep traditional values alive. However, these practices are often met with irony in today's world, where the celebration of culture is sometimes viewed through a Westernized lens that may misunderstand its significance.
So Is the African Culture Immodest at Its Core?
Despite the deep-rooted history of adornment and body art in Africa, modern society has begun to question these practices. As Western ideals have increasingly influenced African societies, cultural traditions have sometimes been viewed with suspicion. Anklets, waist beads, and even certain hairstyles are now often seen through a Westernized lens, with some people questioning their morality or appropriateness.
For instance, a simple gold anklet, once a symbol of beauty, can now draw unwanted attention. Recently, an elderly man asked a young woman wearing an anklet if she was a "cultist," a reflection of how misunderstood our traditional adornments have become. Coral beads, once the ultimate symbol of prestige, are no longer worn freely, and women who adorn themselves with waist beads are sometimes accused of engaging in fetish practices.
At what point did our traditional adornments become immodest? The waist beads our grandmothers wore were cherished, but now, they are often misunderstood. If an Igbo maiden walked down the street today, adorned in her traditional attire with coral beads from head to toe, would she face the same scrutiny as someone wearing gold chains and waist beads in a modern outfit?
A lady at the mall the other day wore a gold anklet, and an elderly man asked her, "Are you a cultist?" At the very core of our hearts, Africans would always find a way to adorn themselves with jewelry. Coral beads were the gold standard back then, but now that we cannot freely wear coral beads on our hands and feet and move around the "civilized world," we have to switch to gold or silver chains. Yet, we cannot do that without someone telling us we are doing something immoral.
There have been speculations that only lesbians wear anklets. In a society where homosexuality is not widely accepted, it is a backhanded insult to African culture. If an Igbo maiden, dressed in all her attire, with coral beads from head to toe, walked past the same man, would he ask her if she were a cultist?
Another trend is accusing women who still wear waist beads of doing something fetish. The very waist beads that our grandmothers watched their grandmothers wear? The very waist beads that our great-grandfathers made to sell at the markets? At what point did we forget where we come from, and at what point will somebody tell us where we are going?
If a lady were to walk down the market road with a tube top and a short skirt, gold chains around her ankles and waist beads around her waist, it's not uncommon for market women to yell at her to cover up. But if the same lady wore her Igbo traditional maiden attire—the one where a short wrapper is tied on her chest and another on her waist—would she be humiliated?
Modern Dress Codes: A Cultural Contradiction?
The tension between traditional African adornments and Western dress codes can be seen in schools and public institutions. Teaching at a primary school in Kaduna, boys were mandated to cut their hair. The reason was to get them used to keeping a prim and proper haircut when they are older, so they could maintain a "responsible" look in the workplace. It is not a bad concept, but the issue was that a number of male Yoruba pupils had long locs (dada). However, exemptions are made for boys born with dreadlocks, given the cultural importance of dada in Yoruba society.
Yet, contradictions arise. One boy, whose father preferred him to have a mohawk, was repeatedly scolded for his hairstyle, despite the cultural acceptance of dada. If maintaining dreadlocks is seen as culturally significant, why is keeping other hairstyles frowned upon? This disparity begs the question: is our culture considered prim and proper only when it aligns with Western ideals?
If two statements contradict themselves, at least one of them is a lie. So if you tell me cutting my hair is the prim and proper thing to do, I can accept that. If you tell me that maintaining dada is also the proper thing to do, I can also accept that. But which one of them is the lie?
Am I doing the improper thing by keeping my hair even when it is an integral part of my culture, or are you saying that my culture is not "prim and proper"?
The Resilience of Tradition: A Return to Our Roots
Despite these contradictions and societal pressures, African culture remains deeply ingrained in our identities. Tattoos, waist beads, coral beads, and traditional attire are not symbols of immorality or immodesty; they are expressions of who we are. Ethiopian women, for example, still adorn themselves with nikisat (traditional tattoos), believing it enhances their beauty. These practices, which have been passed down through generations, are a testament to the resilience of African culture.
To criticize these adornments is to deny our heritage. Our culture runs deep in our veins, and no matter how westernized we become, there will always be a way back home. From coral beads to waist beads, from dreadlocks to tattoos, African traditions continue to thrive in the hearts of those who cherish them.
In the end, it is our culture that defines us, and we must continue to wear it with pride, just as our ancestors did. Africa’s rich history of adornment—whether through beads, body art, or traditional hairstyles—remains a powerful symbol of our identity and a reminder that we are never far from our roots.
Telling us that waist beads, coral beads, short skirts, and tattoos are immodest is telling us that our culture is immodest. Culture runs through our blood, and we will always find a way back home.
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